From Pocket to Wrist: How the Modern Wristwatch Was Born

Long before watches landed on the wrist, they lived in pockets. Heavy silver and gold cases protected small mechanical movements, and pulling a watch from a vest pocket was simply how time was checked. For centuries this was the norm, especially for men. Pocket watches were practical, formal and widely seen as a mark of refinement. The idea of wearing a watch on the wrist existed, but it was far from the accepted standard.

The earliest wrist-worn watches date back to the mid 1800s, though they were almost exclusively made for women. These pieces were closer to jewelry than tools, designed as ornate bracelets with tiny movements tucked inside. Men dismissed them as decorative and unnecessary. A gentleman used a pocket watch, full stop. The wristwatch was considered fragile, imprecise and, for its time, unfitting for a man.

American Waltham pocket watch after service.

That perception changed not because of fashion, but because of necessity. As the 19th century came to an end and the early 20th century edged closer to global conflict, military officers began realizing how impractical pocket watches were in the field. Coordinating movements, navigating under pressure and timing artillery all demanded quick, hands-free access to the time. Digging into a pocket slowed everything down. So soldiers began modifying their own watches. They soldered wire lugs onto pocket watch cases, threaded leather straps through them and created the earliest true wristwatches. Crude in form, but exactly what the moment required.

Manufacturers quickly saw the shift. By the start of World War I, companies like Girard-Perregaux and Longines were producing dedicated wristwatches for military use. These watches had luminous radium numerals for nighttime visibility, fixed lugs for durability and movements built to survive harsh environments. They were tools in the most literal sense. And when soldiers returned home wearing them, something changed. The wristwatch carried with it the reputation it earned in the trenches. People trusted it because it had already proven itself under the worst conditions imaginable.

By the 1920s, wristwatches were no longer considered unusual for men. The industry embraced the new direction and began shaping watches specifically for life on the wrist. Cases became slimmer and stronger. Crystals improved. Styles evolved with the Art Deco era. Waterproofing advanced through experimentation, ultimately leading to important breakthroughs like the Rolex Oyster case in 1926, which showed the world what a properly sealed wristwatch could withstand. When Mercedes Gleitze swam the English Channel with an Oyster on her wrist, it cemented the idea that these watches were not only practical but robust.

This shift also changed the mechanics inside the watch. Movements originally designed for stationary pockets now had to endure constant motion, temperature swings, shocks and daily wear. Watchmakers improved balance assemblies, refined gear trains, added better shock protection and rethought jewel placement. Automatic winding followed soon after, a clear acknowledgment that the watch now lived on a moving arm rather than resting safely in a pocket.

What began on the battlefield transitioned smoothly into everyday life. Wristwatches became symbols of exploration, precision and style. Aviators relied on them, divers trusted them and travelers found comfort in their reliability. Over time they became meaningful personal objects, often tied to memories and milestones. A watch was no longer just an instrument. It became a companion.

Working at the bench today, it is impossible to ignore these origins. You see them in the design cues that survived the past century: fixed-lug silhouettes, oversized crowns, legible dials, rugged shapes and the subtle echoes of early military influence. The path from pocket to wrist was not a quick shift. It was a long evolution shaped by need, refined by craftsmanship and carried forward by the people who relied on these tools.

The modern wristwatch was born from the desire to see the time in an instant, but it grew into something far greater. Every tick we hear today carries a little of that history, a reminder of how a practical solution became one of the most enduring personal objects ever made.

Rolex Datejust dial viewed through a 4x loupe during disassembly for service, seconds and minute hands have already been removed.